Beginner Hello & Qs

[Method]

Back in the old days when monitors were green and running hot water was a dream I used 3d Studio 4 for DOS whilst attending some college in Australia. While I topped the class (with an emphasis on animation - human movement), the lack of local 3D modelling job prospects at the time put that love on hold. 16 years later I’m back - a complete noob, with a steep learning curve and a heap of questions...


I’ve watched several car modelling tutorial videos where some people box model, others use poly planes and some use nurbs curves > loft > convert to poly > troubleshoot all the poly faces > then convert to sub-d. So my questions are -

Q1. What is considered the quickest/easiest and most flexible workflow in modelling a vehicle? Or the most accepted way to model a vehicle? I realise the answer could vary, but lets generalise here.

Q2. In Maya I can smooth a polygonal object by pressing the number 3 on my keyboard. I can even render the smooth (3) using mental ray. My question is why would I convert my poly to a sub-d when I can just press 3 to get a sub-d 'smoothed' effect?


More Q's may follow.

[johnas]

Welcome Method to the merry group of SMCars!

I can't answer to your second question (I'm using 3DSMax only), but for the first I'd say:
Try different styles, some like box modeling and some start from poly plane and extrude it to a complete vehicle. I personally am using polymodeling mostly, for some small parts I might use box. I never use nurbs, they aren't usefull with Max. I might do hosing or other circular things like exhausts. Not sure how well they work with Maya.

Go ahead with Q's, there are always someone who can answer

[Method]

Thanks Johnas.

On a side note - something I failed to mention is that I have been photographing cars (and motorsports in general) professionally for many years, so if anyone wants honest constructive criticism on realism of their renders, I'd be happy to give my view on what needs attention. In addition to that, if I can help out with backgrounds or in any other photographic way, please let me know.

A few of my photos-

[EquiNOX]

Looks nice... maybe color correction or exposure needs work... can you share your focal length rage for eacn 3 pixes?

[Method]

EquiNOX, they are real photos of real cars, I think you need to re-read my post

[Minde]

EquiNOX, they are real photos of real cars, I think you need to re-read my post

I don't think he misunderstood something, those tips and question suits photos as well... I guess.

[Method]

You're right. It appears I miss read his post

Both the exposure and colouring were deliberate on my photos to achieve the look I was going for.

Pic1 = 16mm f2.8
Pic2 = 200mm f4
Pic3 = 24mm f2.8

[Falango]

Welcome Method!

For your first question, however you like to work is really up to you, and some variables, like what kind of vehicle you're modeling, and what level of detail you are aiming for. In the end, clean 4 sided polys ready to be subdivided is what is generally accepted. In the 3 different film studios I've been in, and one 3D simulation studio, all of them followed that principle.

As for #2, if you are just doing still renders in mental ray, there would be no need for subdivision. There have been some cases where I've had to render some passes using Maya Software, which means I have to subdivide those pieces, since software doesn't render preview smooth.

You may want to apply the smooth to the model if you were exporting it to another program as well. Maya and Mudbox together use the Catmull-Clark subdivision equation, so together, they smooth models exactly the same way. I am unsure about what other programs will use, but if you were to export the base mesh (unsmoothed) geo, and then smooth it in another program, they may not smooth the same way.

Not sure if you are aware, but hitting 3 will give you a preview of what the smooth will look like if you apply 2 divisions. Generally, 2 divisions will give you enough detail, as long as you've created the appropriate support geo for hard edges, etc. You'd only really need a third division for real closeup shots.

[Method]

That was very helpful Falango, thank you very much.