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wow andy great painting skills. that Rolls Royce text is impressive 8o you seem to have a calm hand
![]() i have done a lot of scale models when i was jounger, like 13ish or so. i never got around to coloring them completely though. i have a lot of airplanes, 2 cars, a tank and an airplane carrier ![]() ![]() I'm a Prefectionist |
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heh, cool. This kind of modelling is what got me into 3D too: doing stuff as realistic as possible. I've got tons lying around, I tend to make stuff in groups: WWII 1:72 planes, Modern 1:48 helicopters, 1:18 American muscle cars, 1:72 jets, I've even got a 1:72 diorama that's been unfinished for like a year.
If you ever want any tips, hit me up, i've been doing this stuff for 9 years now ![]() Quote:
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Ok, well I only got an airbrush ( a cheap-ass one that only does wide areas) 3 years ago, still don't use it a lot. Only if I have to paint like a car body in gloss that is. And still it's really hard and way messier than brushes.
Got tons of tips, but here's how I do weathering: depending on the part you're weathering, choose a color. Metal choose some kind of silver. My experience is that Revell metallic silvers are not as appropriate for this, the best paint for this is my Humbrol nr 11 silver. That one is way smoother and spreads better. For cockpit dials use white, and in some occasions you could try a lighter or darker tint of paint of the color you're weathering, experimenting is key here. Anyway, gets down to this: have a DRY brush (not dipped in white spirit yet) and get some weathering paint on it. Then start wiping the paint off to a piece of cardboard (not on the same spot all the time) until there's only a little bit of paint coming off in dry swipes. Then, just wipe over your part, the paint should stick to the elevated areas. The key here is not overdoing it, watch out with that. If you do well (not that hard, takes some practice) you'll get nice effects. Like a tank that has chipped paint, or an engine or gun that looks used. I use this extensively, here's some examples: http://users.pandora.be/b_corijn/diorama/churchill.htm (huge load btw) (on the Churchill you can see that a wetter form of drybrushing can be used for mud) (btw, do you only have ONE brush?) ![]()
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Ah sweet memories.
I also did this model, and the 1/24 Spitfire too. This was when i had a lot of aircraft models lying around, 1/72 mostly but also 1/48 and 1/32, Hasegawa, Fujimi, Aoshima, Revell, Monogram, Airfix, Frog (many Airfix and Frog), Kovozavody Prostejov (Czech, very nice and detailed) and many many more. Eventually i got around airbrushing, which let me into airbrush illustration. By the time i was enough skilled with the airbrush tho, i had left modeling for good. The models began to gather dust and one day i gave all away. Today i still keep a few unassembled, mainly old Revell civil a/c like the 1/144 Constellation and the 707 and 727, very old kits sealed in their boxes. Dry brush and heated/stretched styrene are good techniques, i used them a lot. Even bought a book on how-to detailing the Hurricane even more (Classic Aircraft Nº 4 - Hawker Hurricane. Patrick Stevens, Cambridge). If you wish i can scan some material from the book. I strongly advise you to get hold of an airbrush. Saving for the equipment is a good thing. Paasche's V is ideal, rugged and versatile. Get a dentist compressor, may be an used one, it's quiet and has a canister(reservoir?). Couple it with a pressure regulator and you will do wonders. Not even the best brush can compare to an airbrush when it comes to camouflage and natural metal finish. Of course it demands a lot of care and cleaning (it clogs easily and the needle bens as well) but sure the results show. |
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